A Look at Trogir
Trogir is a gorgeous place just 30 minutes’ drive north from Split and located in the northwest part of the Kastela Bay. The fabulous Old Town stands on an islet, separated from the mainland by a man-made canal and linked by a road bridge to Ciovo island. The marina is on Ciovo (over the bridge and turn right).
A walled city (like a mini Dubrovnik) and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Old Town is packed with buildings from all periods: Roman, Hungarian, Venetian, French and Austrian although it was first settled by Greeks from Vis island in 300BC. In the medieval centre there is an “Aladdin’s Cave” feel as narrow cobbled streets lead into tiny courtyards then, suddenly, in front of you is the impressive St Lawrence Cathedral on a huge square. Climb up the bell tower (47 metres high!) for great views. The Loggia and Clock Tower are also must-sees and there are endless jewellery shops, some featuring coral from Dalmatian island reefs.
At various places within the walls you will see mention of Kairos, the Greek god of the lucky moment. Works depicting him and others are in a collection in the St Nicholas Monastery museum.
Trogir has two stone gates – the Land Gate and the Sea Gate. If you leave the Old Town via the Sea Gate and turn right along the Riva (seaside promenade where luxury yachts moor in summer) you come to the 15th Century Kamerlengo Castle and St Marks Tower, there’s a small entrance fee but it is worth walking up. Sometimes now used as an open-air cinema and events stage.
A fabulous fresh market is located just by the main bridge, perfect for picnic ingredients if you plan a day out to one of the islands. A morning ferry leaves the Riva going to Drvenik Veli and Mali islands which have wonderful pebble beaches (these have the clearest ever water) plus a couple of sandy ones, returning early evening. Other regular boats leave for Okrug Gornji on Ciovo island (another great beach) taking around 30 minutes
As Split is so close, it is worth visiting Croatia’s second city and the nicest way is by boat, journey time 30-45 minutes.
Need a few more ideas?
– Trogir’s Summer Festival is one of the longest, from mid/late June until early September. A music festival with classic and folk content, performances are usually outdoors, in fortresses, churches and on town squares. Look out for local posters as some events are advertised at short notice.
– Pantan Beach, two kilometres east of Trogir (direction Split) has fine shingle and sand bays formed from the Pantan wetland which was once a huge marsh.
This is now a Nature Reserve with over 2000 bird and fish types and the Renaissance Pantan Mill has been restored; a great place for lunch. Excellent kayak tours from here affording wonderful views of the Trogir Rivera.
– Sign up for half day cookery classes at Tatjana’s cooking school, housed in a 13th century palace in the middle of the Old Town. Ask at the tourist office.
– The biggest choice of watersports is on Medena beach, part sandy, part pebbles, a 20 minute walk from Trogir or quicker by water taxi. Try to avoid August when the place is packed.
– Take a day trip by boat to the Blue Lagoon and the island of Solta (lunch included).
– One of Croatia’s most spectacular national parks with lakes and cascades, Krka is just 45 minutes away. Drive yourself if you have a car or take one of the many excursions.
– Take a wine tour and hear the story of the DNA results of the Plavac Mali and Crljernak grapes that grow near Trogir.
One of our favourite places for dinner is Konoba TRS very close to the main square. Book in advance for a table outside in the pretty vine-covered courtyard. Food is excellent, we love the lobster pasta and the fish platter for sharing and for meat lovers there is a good choice including duck and boar dishes. After dinner wander along the Riva, have a drink or a coffee at one of the many cafe terraces and watch the jet set on their super yachts in summer. You could be surprised who you might spot in stunning Trogir, a long way from Hollywood!